Clean Up Your Operating System

It seems to be a fact of life that the longer your operating system has been installed on your computer, the slower it gets. I recently had to back up all my data and reinstall my operating system, and the difference it made is incredible. Even if you aren’t prepared to completely wipe your system, there are some things you can do to speed things up.

Microsoft recommends running built-in utilities, like Disk Cleanup and Disk Defragmenter, on a regular basis. There are comparable utilities in every operating system. You can also use an external tool, like Iolo Technologies’ System Mechanic, which can fix common problems and reduce demands on your system, like unused background programs.

Clean Out Files

Even as hard drives keep getting bigger, we keep coming up with files to fill them up. While sorting through all your files may not be necessary, doing a little spring cleaning can make them easier to manage. Personally, I try to get the files I don’t think I’m going to need again off my main computer and on to a separate hard drive every so often, if only to make sure that I have space for more.

It may not be a bad idea to go through what you have on other storage media. I recently ran across a stack of floppy disks, only to realize that I didn’t have access to anything that could actually read them at this point. There are a few files there that I’d like to have, but otherwise, there’s no reason to cart around old floppy disks.

Don’t Forget the Hardware

Even if the only part of your computer that you can actually see is the monitor, it’s worthwhile to occasionally knock the dust off. We’ve discussed cleaning laptops before, and cleaning desktops isn’t too different. Wipe down those monitors, clear out vents and maybe even clean your keyboard and mouse while you’re at it. Just getting rid of the dust can extend your computer’s life.

Make Your Progress Permanent

Once you’ve gotten your computer cleaned out, it’s worth taking a little time to make sure that it stays that way. One of the best options is to make sure that any tools you’re using are set up to run automatically — virus scanners, backups and so forth should be running regularly without you needing to remember to start them up.

Don’t forget to mark Clean Out Your Computer Day on the calendar for next year!

Photo by Flickr user PhotoOptik, licensed under CC BY 2.0.

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1. Plan for a successful New Year. Do a review of your work and see how you can make the next year a better one.
2. Clean your email box. Challenge yourself to reach inbox zero, or if you have thousands of messages, shoot for half. Delete newsletters, unsubscribe to newsletters you never read, file emails that require no further action on your part and address those that do. Don’t put it off. Make it a goal to complete the to-do emails by December 31.
3. File papers. Not all of us have every bill, invoice and paperwork in electronic format. It’s easier to file paperwork on an as-you-go basis rather than let them pile up. I have folders for bank statements, credit card statements, business contracts and printed pay stubs. If you receive any other paperwork on a regular basis, create a folder. You may need folders for items related to health benefits, stocks and retirement.
4. Update your resume and bio. It helps to update these on a regular basis as you take on more challenging projects or work with new clients. It’s easy to let these slip that when someone asks for a resume or bio, we scramble to provide an updated one. Do it now while you’re not rushed. It also helps to have a short, medium and long version of your bio. While you’re at it, review your LinkedIn, Facebook, Twitter and other social media profiles to ensure they’re up to date.
5. Organize your workstation. Take a look at your work area and see if there are improvements you can make. You may already have a great office set up, but it never hurts to make sure it’s optimal.
6. Clean your computer(s). Cleaning includes both the inside and outside of your computer. Thursday gave some tips on how to clean the outside of your laptop and Simon addressed the cleaning the inside.
7. Take care of administrative tasks. The tasks depend on whether you have your own business or work for someone else. For those who do the invoicing, take a look at your accounts receivables to make sure all of your invoices have been paid and take care of those that have not. You may also need to collect 1099s and W-2 forms.
8. Review your address book. Consolidate your contacts, back them up and archive old contactd. Verify you have contact information that you need and put those business cards into your address book.
9. Review your social media strategy. Whether you blog, tweet or update your statuses in Facebook and LinkedIn, having a plan in place ensures you remember to provide value to others rather than focus on you. Your plan doesn’t have to be formal; just one that gives you direction to keep you on track. Also, think about how much time you spend in social media, which is more about return on relationships than direct ROI. This might be a good time to review Aliza’s 10 Golden Rules of Social Media.
10. Assess your marketing strategy. What’s working? What’s not working? How do you land new business or projects? You may need to up your marketing activities in one area and drop them in another.

Think about how great you’ll feel when you return to work after the New Year more organized and ready to take charge.

What are you doing to prepare for the New Year?

Photo credit: Jeff Hire

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Computers get dirty, especially their human interface surfaces — keyboards and pointing devices.

In some instances, dirt can even affect input device performance as well as appearance. Some time ago the faithful SlimType gave me a scare when the F and W keys stopped responding properly. A keystroke would register only when the key was pressed more firmly than usual, and the subtle over-center click of the SlimType’s scissors keyswitch mechanism was missing — the malfunctioning keys feeling “numb” and offering higher than normal resistance.

The medicine that time proved to be blowing out the accumulated crud beneath the key console with compressed air. I successfully used an automotive shop compressor with a blow gun. For more cautious folks, or those without convenient access to a compressor, one of those little aerosol cans of compressed air used for cleaning photography equipment could do the trick.

But sometimes a bit of compressed air isn’t enough. So, here is our guide to cleaning everything from mice to laptops.

Getting Started: Apple’s Cleaning Recommendations

Apple has posted a Knowledge Base article covering recommendations and guidelines for cleaning Apple computers, displays, or input/ peripheral devices. Much of its advice should be common sense, such as before you start cleaning:

1. Turn off your Mac.
2. Unplug the power cord from the wall or power strip.
3. Remove the battery (from products with removable batteries such as some Apple portables or from wireless devices such as mice and keyboards).
4. Disconnect all external devices from the computer.

Other warnings some users might be less likely to think of are:

• Don’t use window sprays or cleaning products containing ammonia, chlorine, or abrasive ingredients.
• Don’t use rough towels or cloths to dry the plastic.
• Don’t spray cleaner directly onto your computer. Liquid could drip inside the case and cause an electrical shock or malfunction.
• Don’t use excessively damp cleaning wipes.

If more than dusting is needed, use a lint-free cloth slightly dampened to wipe away dirt or grime. Don’t over-wet the cloth. If you can squeeze drips of water out by wringing, it’s too wet.

Solvents and Cleaners

Plain water may not be effective on oils or grease residues, in which case a stronger agent will be needed. Try iKlear or mild detergent first.

Cleaning Laptops

Instructions specific to Apple laptops include not using isopropyl alcohol on bare LCD panels (or any type of alcohol or ammonia-based glass or window cleaner, I hasten to add). Use only a damp, soft, lint-free cloth or purpose-made, Apple-approved LCD cleaning product like iKlear.

Aluminum portables are best tackled with a damp, soft, lint-free cloth. Apple says it’s safe to use 70 percent isopropyl alcohol on them (I personally wouldn’t) or iKlear. Remove surface dust or loose dirt gently with your bare hand before proceeding with cleaner and cloth. After cleaning, dry the aluminum with a soft, lint-free cloth.

For plastic portables, the same applies as aluminum, but I would recommend a gentler, damp-cloth approach first and reserve the heavier-duty agents for stubborn stuff. As with the metal machines, remove any loose surface dirt gently with your bare hand before proceeding with cleaner and cloth. After cleaning, dry the plastic with a soft, lint-free cloth.

For the new unibody MacBook’s non-slip plastic coated aluminum bottom case, Apple recommends using a 3M Gray Microfiber or soft dye-free, lint-free cloth for cleaning, once again giving its blessing to 70 percent isopropyl alcohol or iKlear on the bottom case.

Mouse Cleaning

Mice get dirty. When your mouse becomes covered in fingerprints or its surface is soiled, you can gently wipe it with a clean, lint-free cloth. If necessary, moisten the cloth using plain water, making sure not to over-saturate it, and be mindful that the mouse’s internal electronic components may be damaged if water seeps or drips inside.

With Apple’s Mighty Mouse, the scroll ball can be cleaned using a lint-free cloth lightly moistened with water, making sure to rotate the ball itself to ensure complete coverage or you can use something like Wet One.

Drowned Keyboard First Aid

Moisture is potential death to electronics, as anyone who’s ever spilled liquids on a computer keyboard or laptop can ruefully tell you. Apple also warns against using solvents like acetone, alcohol, or alcohol-based cleaners on your computer, admonishing to never spray cleaner directly onto the machine, since liquid could drip inside the keyboard or case and cause an electrical shock (or more likely a component-frying short-circuit and/or residual corrosion).

Should you spill liquid on your keyboard, if it’s thin and clear fluid, immediately shut the computer down, unplug the keyboard, turn it upside down, and drain the liquid out, let it dry (inverted or on edge is best) for 24 hours at room temperature, after which it may or may not recover. If the liquid is greasy, sweet, sticky, or acidic, you’re likely out of luck. I ruined a MacAlly iceKey scissors-action keyboard a while back by sloshing diluted Grapefruit Seed Extract (extremely acidic) on it twice in a week — the only times I’ve drowned a keyboard in two decades of computer use. We disassembled the keyboard and cleaned the circuits, but corrosion had set in.

Computer Disinfection

With the H1N1 flu pandemic, computer contact surface disinfection has moved to the front burner, especially for machines accessed by multiple users. Apple support also has a Knowledge Base article entitled How To Disinfect The Apple Internal Or External Keyboard, Trackpad, And Mouse. The article recommends, in addition to regular cleaning of your computer and input devices, that disinfecting them may be desirable, noting that,”Multiple people using the same computer, people using the computer when they were ill, and the particular environment where the computer is used, are a few reasons you may wish to disinfect areas of the computer that people come into contact with the most.”

Using a mild soap with antibacterial properties will help, but Apple suggests properly disinfecting contact areas with products like Lysol Wipes, Clorox Disinfecting wipes, or Clorox Kitchen Disinfecting Wipes. I would be cautious about using them on the screen however (except for glass-covered aluminum laptop and iMac displays), and would stick with water or iKlear for that. Otherwise, follow the general rules outlined in the regular cleaning instructions above, with a special caveat to not use disinfectant wipes containing bleach, or disinfectant sprays in general.

What are some techniques you’ve used to clean those hard to reach and sensitive areas of your gadgets?

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You’re running out of disk space? You want to clean your disk to free up some space and get rid of the clutter? Sponge is a tool to keep your Mac clean and tidy.

Features

Sponge combines three different techniques to clean up your Mac: removing applications, locating the large files on your drive and finding duplicates.

• Removing applications: Sponge generates a list of all the applications installed on your system, how much space these applications occupy, and their associated files and folders. Sponge then provides the facility to remove applications safely from the system.
• Sweeping disk hogs: Sponge will show which files and directories take up the most space, giving you a starting point for cleaning some of the clutter from your Mac. Once you’ve tracked them down, Sponge can conveniently swipe them off your disk.
• Finding duplicates: With all the attachments, memos, letters and other documents with which we are flooded in today’s world, it’s easy to lose track and accidentally save duplicates of files. Sponge makes finding these multiple copies easy.

Likes and Dislikes

The aspect of Sponge I’m most impressed with is that the creators have thought to put these three tools together in one piece of software. I commonly use similar software to sweep my disk and remove applications, and have never thought to perform an in-depth search for duplicate files before now. Finding duplicates works well and has a simple interface for determining which file is the most up to date.

Unfortunately, I haven’t completely fallen for the application uninstall feature. One main issue is that Sponge generates a list of all your installed applications — this takes time, and limits the choice of apps to uninstall. I’d prefer to be able to point to a file/application and have Sponge find all the associated resources to remove.

Finally, the ‘Sweep Disk Hogs’ tool impressed me with its speed. Previous applications I’ve used for this functionality have scanned the entire hard drive. Sponge allows you to drill down folder-by-folder, making it considerably quicker. It isn’t as easy to get a picture of your whole drive but is still straight forward to find large, cumbersome files.

Competing Utilities

Some other utilities which can perform similar functions to Sponge include AppZapper, a software uninstallation tool, and DiskInventory X, capable of showing the biggest files on your hard drive. From experience of using all three, I am of the opinion that AppZapper and DiskInventory perform a better overall job in their respective categories. However, Sponge seems unique in offering all three of these facilities in one package. If you’re looking for a single tool to help clean up the files on your system, Sponge could be a good option. It costs $19.95, but a full 15 day trial is available.

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So I had to find a non-abrasive but effective way to clean my screen. The best product I’ve found — and believe me, I’ve tried everything — is a microfiber lens cloth made of ultra suede.

The Process

First, I use a monitor wipe.
Then polish the surface gently with the microfiber cloth. You may have to use a little bit of elbow grease if someone (not you of course) has touched the screen with sticky fingers.

The ultra suede microfiber leaves no streaks,no smoky residue, no muss, no dust, no gooey fingerprints. And it shines like the first day you took your MacBook or iMac or MacBook Pro out of the box. Good for cleaning matt or glossy LCDs or glass monitors, too, like the new iMac.

Microfiber ultra suede lens cloths are small, about 5 x 7, inexpensive and durable. Mine looks like a thin version of ultra suede but is tacky to the touch and is bunch-up-able for easy transport. I’ve had mine almost a year and I use it to clean my MacBook, iPhone, my iPods and my iMac screen.

The one I have has no sewn edges. Sewn edges can scratch a surface. It’s cut with pinking shears so the cloth will not ravel.

Where to purchase

Staples sells its own brand of Monitor Wipes and I am sure you can buy them at Office Depot or Office Max. Make sure you buy Monitor Wipes and not All-Purpose Wipes. A container of 80 wipes sells for about $10.

Don’t get a microfiber cloth sold in auto shops. They’re for cars.

The one I use came with a travel cleaning kit from iClean by Monster that I purchased at CompUSA. 3M also manufactures microfiber ultra suede cloths and you can buy them for $2.99 at Drugstore.com.

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A quick introduction: This is the keyboard that shipped with the G5 Mac Pros, and in terms of everything but color, is identical to the keyboard from G4-era Macs as well. I was doing this repair because the keyboard was full of food and gunge, relic of a past user, and there was no way that I could issue this to anyone else in the condition it was in. Unfortunately, it was also the only keyboard that I had with the handy little shortcut-reminder stickers that used to come in boxes of Final Cut Pro, and the user wanted those. It was clean it out or nothing. So, without further ado…

How to Take an Apple Pro Keyboard Apart

First, tools. This keyboard has four different types of screws: two different sizes of hex-heads, long and short, and two different sizes of Phillips-head, larger and smaller. I used the smallest Torx I could find, a T5, and my usual tiny Phillips. I would also strongly recommend a flathead, for reasons that I will explain. You may also want a butter knife, although I used my fingernails for more butter-knife-y things.

If you’re cleaning it out, you’re going to need paper towels and a toothbrush. I also found it faster to simply throw the keys in the sink with some dish detergent. A can of compressed air didn’t cut it in this case – or most involving food or drink, in my opinion – but it tends to be an industry favorite. The screws are also the usual Apple tiny ones, so whatever your usual not-losing-the-screws precautions, they apply.

This is the keyboard before I started to clean it, about half-disassembled. Yuck.

Opening it up

The two clear shells are held together by some screws and a series of snaps. First, unscrew the two screws on the bottom, one at either side, with the T5. Next, pop off the key caps of the semicolon, caps lock, and the number pad’s six. Under these three keys are three more tiny screws, Phillips ones. Watch out for these; they’re incredibly easy to pop the heads off of, and the ones in my keyboard were on abominably tight.

To remove the keys, insert the flat head screwdriver, nail file, or whatever other flat, flexible object you picked under the key cap. Using a neighboring key or the edge of the shell as a fulcrum, lever the key off. I learned the hard way that it would probably be smart to hold onto the key while you pop it off – I had to go looking for more than one, and thy snap off hard enough to give you a good poke in the eye.

There is also one more screw that you’ll have to remove – under the Apple Pro label on the bottom, right next to the cord. (This one is ridiculously hard to find – I got lucky and noticed it from a strange angle.) There are two ways I can think of to get at this screw. The easier one is to feel around until you know where the hole is, then simply poke a Phillips screwdriver through the label. A magnetic screwdriver can then pull the screw right out, or you can shake the keyboard until it falls out. Alternatively, you can peel the label off using a knife. I chose not to do so on this keyboard, but the label is one of the stiff plastic ones that Apple seems to favor, and I have found a butter knife to work well in the past.

Now that all the screws are out, next are the snaps. There are seven or so along the front, two on each side, and four in the back. Stick a thin, flat object into the crack in the corner and start gently wedging them apart. Once I got one, I was able to get my fingernails in and slide the rest apart.

The top clear cover will come off cleanly, leaving you a tray of keys in a shallow, clear plastic shell.

Accessing the keys

Next, you need to remove the little piece of clear plastic that prevents cord strain, which also serves to attach the plastic piece the keys clip to to the lower shell. There are two Phillips screws holding this in place; if you’re careful, you can shift the key support up and forward a little to reach them without disturbing anything.

You can now lift the keys out of the bottom shell. The keys are attached to a plastic sheet that holds the key caps. Under this is the actual membrane and the circuitry, with a thin piece of metal beneath for protection. All of this is attached to a small printed circuit board.
If you need to clean liquids out – fortunately, I didn’t – you will need to separate all these pieces. There are two screws on the PCB that need to come off, and then you can use something thin and flexible to get the plastic, the membrane, and the metal sheet apart. The photo to the right is taken from the bottom, so that you can see the PCB and one of the screws on it. The clear plastic bit secures the cable, and the metal just to its right is actually how it attaches to the keyboard.

Cleaning

I pulled all the keys off the plastic clips and threw them in the sink. (My coworkers thought this was hysterical, and quite strange.) The only exceptions to this were the long keys – the tab, caps lock, shift, space bar, enter, return, and control – as these have a metal pivot bracket underneath.

They’re still pretty easy to get off, but there is some sort of clearish lubricant on the metal bits. If you need to clean this off – hair and food will, quite evidently, get stuck in it – a little vaseline makes a fine replacement.

I then used water and paper towels to get all the gunge off the shells and the white piece under the keys. If you have one to spare, I’d recommend a toothbrush for this; it would have made my life a lot easier. Windex worked a wonder on the clear shells. While you’re cleaning it out, be careful not to dislodge or lose the clips that hold the bottom support bar in place. If you do, these little C-shaped pieces of plastic are fairly easy to reunite with the bar, but it’s worth a second or two to mention that they are actually separate from the bottom shell.

Putting it all back together

Basically, it all goes back together in the reverse of the way it came out. The one hard part to this is getting the screws on the strain-relief bit back in place. However, if you tip the keyboard slightly up and forward, you can get access to the screws again. I put the keys back on almost last, with just the shell left to go, so that I had access to all of them as long as possible.

For putting the keys back on, you might want to find another keyboard of the same vintage – I was looking at mine, one of the new Bluetooth ones, and it threw me for a loop until I realized that only one of them had an F16 key. Fortunately, the keys are easy to move. There are some interesting side notes, as well. The shift keys are two different sizes. The arrow keys are subtly curved and uniquely shaped; the up arrow is the only one of the four that is concave. It might be wise to mark the other three on the bottom somehow. Also, it is possible to distinguish the number pad keys from the top row numbers by the fact that the number pad is blank except for the numbers.

Those keys with metal pivots slide into place from one side before they snap down. Due to the size and the fact that they must be inserted from an angle, I would recommend putting them on first. (They make useful landmarks, too.)

Final Impressions

Altogether, this took me about four and a half hours to figure out and do, although a lot of that was spent searching for screws, screwdrivers, and the H key, which flipped under my desk. It really impressed me with the solid design of these keyboards – I think it would have been much, much harder to do this with many of the ‘IBM-compatible’ keyboards I’ve worked with over the years. It was notably easy to take this all to pieces; even the keys popped off easily, with a noise very reminiscent of Legos.

Also, the little design details were very impressive. The curvature of the arrow keys, for instance, or the enter key on the number pad, were subtle differences that really distinguished the keyboard from much less classy looking rivals.

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